Photographed by Gucci, Courtesy of WWD

Milan Dispatch: The Power of Italian Glamour

Legacy and Lineage: The Italian Houses Setting the Tone

Gucci

The debut of Demna's new creative vision for Gucci culminated not in a traditional runway show, but with the premiere of 'The Tiger,' a short film directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn and starring Hollywood icons Demi Moore and Edward Norton. The collection, showcased via a lookbook of 'La Famiglia' archetypal characters, promises a direction for the house that is "unapologetically seductive, opulent, and audacious." The film itself is a glossy melodrama about the strong, fictional president of Gucci International, Barbara Gucci, undergoing an unexpected upheaval at a family birthday party, serving as an artistic celebration of the collection's themes.

Photographed by Gucci, Courtesy of WWD

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi directs Fendi's Spring/Summer 2026 accessories collection, which champions a bright and cheerful aesthetic. This season, the collection embraces the concept of a 'future summer' through a vivid assortment of accessories, including bags with primary colours, woven textures, and sequin linings, representing a general sense of vitality and pleasure. Venturini Fendi underscored the brand's commitment to blending innovation with the preservation of unique traditions and workmanship, all while retaining a whimsical touch throughout the collection.

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

Max Mara

Ian Griffiths' Max Mara collection, "Rococo Modern," debuted at the historic Palazzo del Ghiaccio and successfully combined the brand's characteristic streamlined femininity with dramatic touches, such as ruffled shoulders and organza accents. Griffiths drew inspiration from the historical figure Madame de Pompadour, whom he praised for her "power, influence, and intellect," classifying her as part of the Max Mara "pantheon" of noteworthy women. Her influence was visible in the collection's look, particularly the "barely-there" hue inspired by the so-called "Queen of Rococo," as well as a modern interpretation of her iconic hairstyle.

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

Prada

The Prada fashion show set, placed in the Deposito area at Fondazione Prada, hinted at a dramatic shift in the house’s mood. The hangar-like building was opened up for the first time, allowing natural sunlight to filter through, a marked change from its previously artificially lit interior. This light-filled setting evoked the airy atmosphere of the previous men's show. However, the floor was strikingly modified with a lacquered sea of orange paint, replacing the former white floral rugs. This spontaneous and unburdened scenography suggested that the women's collection, like the designers' previous "easiest" and "human" men's offering, would embrace a sense of freedom and instinct.

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

Emporio Armani

Milan Fashion Week hosted a truly poignant moment with the final Emporio Armani collection from the late Giorgio Armani, who passed away at the age of 91. The collection, held at the Teatro/Armani, retained his hallmark style of louche elegance and global fashion references, featuring details such as obi-style belts and his famous sinuous curves. This emotional tribute ended not with a traditional designer's bow, but with a dramatic symbolic gesture: an empty runway exit that elicited a standing ovation from the crowd.

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

Versace

Dario Vitale's debut Versace collection was revealed during a secret event in Milan. As the new Creative Director and successor to Donatella Versace, Vitale presented a collection for both men and women that encapsulated the brand's essential essence through signature Versace designs and themes. Vitale stated that his primary influence was not specific items, but the spirit and legacy of Gianni Versace, focusing on celebrating the house's illustrious history and essence of unfettered dressing and raw sensuality. His debut marked a new era for the Italian design brand, elevating historical commemoration over material reproduction.

Photographed by Versace, Courtesy of WWD

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis's Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2026 collection is defined by a concept of 'liberated elegance,' with strong influences drawn from the 1920s and the Harlem Renaissance. The design concept began with a historical portrait of silent film star Lola Todd in leopard print, inspiring Davis to investigate how African and Caribbean materials and textiles were reinterpreted as status symbols in Western fashion. This inspiration culminated in sinuous, period-inspired dresses with devoré animal patterns and men's apparel that took the expressive, louche tailoring of zoot suits to create a modern dandy look, providing a reframed version of 'the Roaring Twenties'.

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

Bottega Veneta

Louise Trotter's much-anticipated debut collection for Bottega Veneta at Milan Fashion Week demonstrated a sophisticated vision that combined global inspiration with focused handmade skill. The collection was ambitious in its concept, attempting to capture the "extravagance of Venice," the "spark of New York," and the "essentialism of Milan." Crucially, the collection re-emphasised the brand's core devotion to workmanship, featuring the classic intrecciato leather weaving method and other vibrant textures. Trotter stressed that Bottega Veneta is a collaborative effort, concluding that the design process is when "the hand and the heart become one."

Photographed by Giovanni Giannon, Courtesy of WWD

The New Vanguard: MFW's Rising Design Stars

The A Story

The A Story is recognised as a major K-fashion technology firm dedicated to reinventing the fashion industry through eco-friendly innovation and adherence to ESG principles (Environmental, Social, and Governance). The company is setting a new industry standard by incorporating sustainable techniques, such as biodegradable fibres, and pledging to use 90% recycled materials by 2030, with the purpose of lowering global heat and carbon emissions. Furthermore, they differentiate themselves with innovative technology, such as their no-seam, seamless easy-free technology, which improves both comfort and sustainability. The A Story presents itself as a leader in green growth that prioritises ethical business operations and the well-being of people and the environment.

Photographed by Anna Minaeva, Bon Wongwannawat, Giona Afzal, Tanya Bundzilo, Courtesy of Digital News Fashion

Chancos

The haute couture collection, "Mirage Éternel: Beauty Beyond Time," was showcased during Milan Fashion Week following successful presentations in New York and Paris. Inspired by the grandeur of classical architecture and European theatres, the collection aims to redefine luxury by presenting clothing as true masterpieces that transcend traditional fashion. Under the guidance of Do Thanh Tinh, the collection stresses outstanding craftsmanship, using delicate hand embroidery, avant-garde 3D techniques, and premium materials such as silk satin and organza. With each item requiring hundreds of hours of meticulous effort, "Mirage Éternel" is presented as an immersive journey that combines historical elegance with modern innovation, pushing the limits of high-end tailoring to produce eternal works of art.

Photographed by Anna Minaeva, Bon Wongwannawat, Giona Afzal, Tanya Bundzilo, Courtesy of Digital News Fashion

Anton Giulio Grande

The new Fall/Winter 25-26 collection, "AGG on the Road," by famous couturier Anton Giulio Grande, who served as a guest of honour, provides a dramatic counterpoint to Milanese tradition. This collection is heavily influenced by a nonconformist, rock-spirited woman who enjoys motorcycle travel and incorporates her bike into important life events. Grande sought to combine the inherent aggressiveness and sensuality of his designs with the rebellious spirit of the motorcycle world, seeing the marriage of Italian haute couture and motocross as an interesting challenge. The runway pieces, which include superb craftsmanship in materials such as leather, fur, and feathers, display a variety of outfits—including jackets and capes—that successfully blend elegance, refinement, and the spirit of the open road.

Photographed by Anna Minaeva, Bon Wongwannawat, Giona Afzal, Tanya Bundzilo, Courtesy of Digital News Fashion

With Milan Fashion Week concluding last week, the vibrant showcase of Italian glamour and innovation has left a lasting impression on the fashion landscape. This season highlighted the rich legacy of established houses and the bold visions of emerging designers redefining luxury with sustainability.

For more on Milan Fashion Week schedules and collections, visit Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

Looking ahead, all eyes are now turned to Paris, where the anticipation builds for another thrilling chapter in the fashion narrative. Paris Fashion Week promises to unveil the latest trends, artful creations, and the unmistakable spirit of French couture that captivates the world. Expect an exciting blend of tradition and modernity, where iconic houses and avant-garde designers alike will continue to push the boundaries of style and craftsmanship.

Stay tuned for the latest updates as we delve into the heart of Parisian fashion, where elegance and innovation converge!

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